Above: Tim Groen, Ellis Faas, Amsterdam, 2010

Call me a Dutch chauvinist if you like, but I wasn’t surprised to hear that it took Amsterdam-based make-up maven Ellis Faas to create an eponymous product line which combines—all in the name of practicality, mind you—a highly conceptual approach to the color palette with a touch of Dutch design. The long-time Lagerfeld collaborator and former Biotherm designer draws from colors already present in the body (think blood, freckles, veins, etc), and was inspired by artillery and military efficiency for the packaging. After many years of flying where designers and editors needed her (pretty much everywhere), Ellis Faas decided that it was time to use all her experience and create a line of her own. One of the advantages of her new life? “I can finally schedule a dentist appointment I’ll be able to keep!”

TG: Weapons and blood generally don’t come up in a conversation about a new make-up line. I’m intrigued…what was your initial concept?
EF: Quite selfishly, I set out to create something I’ve personally never been able to find: a super-compact, all-encompassing line. It has always annoyed me that every single product comes in a different shape, a different container. So you inevitably end up with a purse full of crap. Make-up artists are traditionally forced to create their own collection of portable products, by transferring everything to little jars and travel bottles—so we’re not lugging an entire make-up counter along. Oddly, that idea never got translated to the consumer before.

TG: And this idea led to a fairly unorthodox packaging solution. It’s elegant for sure, but it kind of stands out in the universe of make-up containers, right?
EF: When I started developing the packaging, I was thinking about a gun, loaded with bullets. Don’t get me wrong; I’m a total pacifist, but I have a fondness for militaristic design solutions. Even though I’m against war, these guys know how to pack, and I relate to that. Once the bullet idea was established, Arnout Visser, the Droog-affiliated industrial designer, finalized the lightweight packaging design. Concealer, eyeshadow, lipstick, mascara, anything you can think of is tucked away in that one “pen.” That’s it—it’s all you need to bring.

TG: And what is special about the actual make-up?
EF: Quality. I’ve always blended my own colors, as a make-up artist, and during my five years as a Biotherm designer. So I’ve applied my know-how of high quality ingredients, and of blending, texture, and color—which I’ve always blended myself anyway—to developing these products that I want people to get absolutely hooked on. That’s essential; before you even buy the container, you need to feel that this is it for you. It’s not a gimmick.

TG: No animal testing?
EF: No animal testing! We are officially, legally cruelty-free.
A lot of people ask me whether the line’s organic as well, which it isn’t. Texture and effect are so important to me that I can’t limit myself to certain ingredients.
You know, it’s not a black and white issue; “Man-made” does not equal “Earth-unfriendly”, and something that’s organic does not automatically make it better for your body or skin.

TG: Now what about that web-rumor stating that you are Lagerfeld’s favorite?
EF: Oh that! (laughs). Some British reporter wrote that, I believe, and then it starts leading its own life. I never said anything of the sort, of course!
The real story is that I’ve known Lagerfeld forever, and I’ve done many shows and editorials with him, and I occasionally still do. We just worked on a shoot for Vogue Nippon together. When you work with someone of his stature frequently, and for a length of time, you end up being a part of their entourage. Which sounds like more fun then it is; because you’re expected to be there at the drop of a hat. Decline a couple of jobs, and people look at you cock-eyed.
I’ve also been in that situation with Mario Testino, who kind of “made” me. But what can I say? I’m Dutch, so I’m not the world’s best diplomat! I’ve definitely said no a couple of times when the smarter thing to do would probably have been to just take it.

TG: So your life must have changed a lot since you founded your own company…
EF: My life has totally changed, and that was exactly my intention. Not that I’m complaining about being in demand, but it was getting a little nuts. Now my brother works with me, I have an office staff, we do everything together. It’s a lot less lonely than the life of a traveling make-up person.
And now I can schedule everything, whereas my life before was determined by bookings.
When I worked with Lagerfeld two weeks ago, it was kind of “nostalgic fun,” but I don’t miss the constant pressure to take on everything that comes along, which is how I felt as a successful freelancer.
Now I’m running my own show—there’s no way back!

Links:
>Ellis Faas
Don’t miss her >bio, on her site.
The designer of Ellis Faas’ packaging, >Arnout Visser